Troubleshooting behavioral problems in dogs can sometimes feel like an uphill battle. Despite all of our best efforts, there will be dogs that have a hard time adapting to the world in the way we’d like them to. This is especially true with reactivity cases where the reactive behavior stems from fear and insecurity — no matter how much training, structure, and consistency we provide for them. While these issues can be difficult, there are things we can do to make it easier on ourselves and our dogs.
Reactive behavior is often an emotional response that becomes deep-rooted in our dogs personality over time. There are many cases where by the time professional help is involved, the dog has lost trust in their handler, strangers, other dogs, and the environment to the point that they are essentially living with a form of PTSD. In these situations, just the thought of a trigger appearing can send them into a full-blown panic. The response they have is not rational, but it can be nearly impossible for them to control themselves. When we are dealing with these types of cases it is CRITICAL to look at the entire picture of the dog. We need to make sure the dog understands what we are asking of them, and that we have properly prepared them to handle that environment. If the reactive dog cannot maintain heel position when nobody is around (with minimal interference), for example, they will likely fail around triggers. Taking it slow and steady and making sure all of the skills are muscle memory BEFORE taking the show on the road helps set the dog for success. They should also be well-exercised BEFORE any public training outings (treadmill training can be a great tool for this), so they are of clearer mind and body before training begins.
Many dog trainers preach about “relationship” and how it influences reactivity. Perhaps your dog does fantastic when your spouse, or dog trainer, or dog walker takes them out, but is extremely reactive when you are holding the leash. Relationship is a big part of dog training, and we obviously need to address any holes there as a part of our training plan. Too much affection without enough structure, an unwillingness to reward good behavior and correct bad behavior, or allowing pushy/inappropriate behavior day-to-day can all absolutely fuel reactive behavior. Dogs like working with clear, consistent handlers who they know will keep them safe. Being a leader for your dog is being a role model who will advocate for them, not for someone who is unpredictable, nervous, and unclear. As your dogs handler, you should be 100% confident in your handling skills and expectations. You should ALSO be focusing on making yourself the most interesting thing in the room via engagement skills, long-line training (where your dog is able to make the correct decision — in a safe space — without constant leash tension and tugging), and you should be giving lots of rewards for good behavior. Some dogs, however, are just more reactive by nature. We see it often in herding breeds, and in dogs who are shy/nervous/anxious. These dogs would likely always exhibit reactivity to some degree due to their genetics, no matter how early we began training. Those cases likely won’t be immediately cured by a good relationship and obedience training alone, but they should show major improvements over time if we stick to a productive, well-thought-out training plan.
Sometimes, physical and emotional maturity can help decrease reactive behavior (if maturity happens in conjunction with solid obedience, confidence building, and engagement with the handler). “Picking the scab” by repeatedly putting the dog in situations where they feel overwhelmed and reactive in the name of exposure can easily push a dog to the point of no return. With a young, maturing dog, sometimes the best thing we can do is take a step back from training in busy spaces all together, and focus on slow-and-steady confidence building in environments we know the dog will be successful. This doesn’t mean hiding behind trees and only taking the dog out at 3AM, but it does mean they should only go places they feel confident and safe (large open spaces away from other dogs and people, their dog training center where they feel secure and have fun, Day Training programs where they can be around other dogs under the guidance of a trainer, and the like) while avoiding places such as parks with no easy escape route, dog-friendly stores, patios, and, yes, neighborhood walks where they have had repeated bad experiences, until they are older. This may mean loading your dog up to a quiet neighborhood to do your training walk so they don’t encounter “that house with a dog who always charges them from behind the fence/front door/etc” for the foreseeable future, as those types of repeated encounters cause some dogs to go on the defensive well before the trigger appears.
Reactivity is tough. It can be frustrating, and hard to see the light at the end of the tunnel. We have to go into these cases understanding that while training can massively improve our lives with our dogs, each dog is an individual who will move at a different pace. Every dog with advanced training and dedicated owners should eventually be able to calmly navigate situations where there are other dogs/people/bikes/etc, IF we commit to taking it slow and being realistic about the dog in front of us. If you’re struggling with reactivity, you are absolutely not alone. Find help, and get your dog the training they need to begin to see the world as a less threatening place to be.
“Dog training is a journey, not a destination.”
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